Eureka – We have made it!
Austin, NV > Eureka, NV
Miles Ridden – 71.0
Mileage to date – 508.1
Given the distance of today’s ride we were determined to get started riding at 7 am sharp. We rolled our bikes out of our rooms at 6 am and went down the street for a breakfast. One of the rules of bicycle touring is to eat until you are completely full and then eat some more. We did exactly that at breakfast. This was key because there are no services from Austin to Eureka.
We started climbing immediately and went up hill for 4 miles to Austin Pass at 7484 feet. We then went downhill for 2 miles and then up hill for 1-2 miles to Bob Scott summit at 7267 feet. There is small campground there where we were able to top off water bottles and use restrooms. The road surface from Austin out past Bob Scott summit was a fine grained gravel with oil applied to it. Unlike anything I have seen anywhere else. Naturally road crews were applying oil to the road as we rode through this morning!
On the way down from Bob Scott summit we met a cyclist ascending and stopped to chat with him. He had ridden out from Montana and immediately asked if one of us was John!? It turns out we met a young couple at dinner last night and they are cycling the same route as us. They were ahead of us this morning and met the cyclist from Montana. They told him to ask us if one of us is named John.
We then rode downhill some more and then eventually ascended Hickinson summit at 6546 feet about 25 miles out from Austin –
We went down hill a couple of miles and got on this straight away that goes for 30 miles and is pretty much flat –
We cruised along this stretch and made very good time as there were minimal winds and the temperatures were in the 80’s. One game I played to occupy myself was to count how many seconds passed from when I saw a car to when they passed us. My record was 180 seconds. Which means assuming they are driving 75 mph and we are riding at 15 mph, we were about 4.5 miles apart when I first spotted them. Feel free to check my math as I did that in my head to occupy the time as well 😀!
It is really hard to convey the vastness of this landscape. It is truly amazing and unlike anything I have ever seen.
About 50 miles out we caught up to the young couple when they stopped for a break. We chatted for a bit and rode with them for a while. The last 5 miles were uphill into Eureka and we were glad to get to our hotel. Naturally, when we rolled into the hotel John got a flat tire. He is getting really good and fixing them!
The housekeeper showed me the 2 different room types available on the 1st floor. There is no elevator. She said to me “I can’t believe we have so many guests tonight!” I replied “well it is Labor Day weekend”. She then said “well who would want to come here?” Well Ok then
This is pretty nice hotel. After all don’t all nice hotels have a little guy like this waiting for you on the bed?
I squished it and a bunch of baby spiders ran across the bed! Welcome to Eureka. Needless to say we got assigned a new room.
Eureka does seem like a nicer place than Austin. It has a population of 610. It also was former mining town which had a population of 10,000 in the late 1880’s. There are more services here than Austin.
The plan tomorrow is to ride to Ely which is about 78 miles away with no services in between (naturally). There will be more climbing tomorrow. We did about 3000 feet today and tomorrow will be more like 5000 feet. We will wake early, eat as much as we can and then eat some more.
Time for dinner.
Pictures from today-
Location at September 01, 2017 at 06:23PM
The Roller Coaster Ride Across Nevada Continues
Cold Springs Station, NV > Austin, NV
Miles Ridden – 49.5
Mileage to date – 437.1
By now the astute reader may have noticed a pattern in our riding across Nevada – up, down, up down…… Nevada is a series of mountain ranges and basins. We will traverse many of these in the next several days.
Despite lack of survival training (inside joke for our dedicated readers), John and I survived the night camping at Cold Springs Station. We awoke to the sounds of a coyote howling and a cow mooing. John was wondering if it would be safe to keep food in the tent overnight as it might attract animals. I told him that I bet the majority of the guys in the RV’s next to us have guns so we should be OK if any bears show up!
As we were packing up camp, the forest fire fighters stopped by the hose next to us to fill up multiple containers with water. The looked at us and our bikes like we were crazy. One of the guys said to another “it takes real endurance to ride a bike out here”. Unlike fighting forest fires in the summer in Nevada?!
The fire fighters loading up with water-
We had a leisurely start to the day since it was a short mileage day and did not leave until 8:20 or so. We immediately started heading downhill for several miles and then climbed up to New Pass at 6348. We then descended and rode across a basin and ascended to Mt Airy at 6679. We descended into a giant basin where we rode downhill for probably 12 miles and then we ascended to Austin at 6605 with the last 5 miles or so uphill.
We found a hotel, got cleaned up and had lunch down the street.
Our hotel-
There is not a lot going on in Austin. It has a population of 197. It is an old silver mining town and before the mine failed the population was several thousand.
I was just thinking that we had not met any real characters today when a guy walks into the restaurant with no shirt on. The look of shock on his face was priceless when the waitress asked him to put on a shirt.
Next we walked into a minimart. The fellow behind counter started chatting with us and told us he was originally from near Malone, NY. He told us that the one of the prisoners that escaped from Dimora prison was killed on his cousins farm. He later told us he was a distant relative of General John Stark who he told us had committed suicide. He then told us that his grandfather committed suicide and then (kiddingly?)said that he pretty much thought about suicide very hour. John asked him if he could hold off another 5 minutes until he checked us out. The clerk thought that was hilarious.
Tomorrow the roller coaster continues. We are headed to Eureka which is about 70 miles away and there are no services in between here and there.
Downtown Austin
This is the giant basin we descended. It was 18 miles from the pass to Austin-
Location at August 31, 2017 at 04:25PM
Riding the Pony Express Route
Fallon, NV > Cold Springs Station, NV
Miles Ridden – 63.7
Mileage to date – 387.6
“Wanted: Young, skinny, wiry fellows not over eighteen. Must be expert riders, willing to risk death daily. Orphans preferred”
Above is a quote from an advertisement for Pony Express riders. I am sure that some of my more astute readers may have guessed by now we are largely following the Pony Express route across Nevada. After spending a day in this remote area, I can only imagine how challenging it was out here 150 or so years ago as a young rider.
I assumed today would be Easy Peasy Part Deux. It seemed like a pretty straight forward ride except the part about 43 miles without any services. We were on schedule for a 7 am departure when John noticed that his bike had a flat tire in the hotel room! He quickly changed the flat. The culprit was yet another “goat head”-
We cruised out of town at a nice pace. We stopped 5 miles out at a convenience store to grab a cold water and use the restroom before we rode the 43 miles up to Middlegate Station.
It was really pleasant riding under cloudy skies which kept the temperatures fairly mild. We were stopped at about 23 miles out due to a road construction. It was single lane for about 5 miles. We had about a 20 minute delay and while we waited the fellow in the truck next to us started talking to us. He is active Navy and told us that the area all around us was part of the Fallon Naval Air Station and they do lots of training here including Topgun. He also said we might see them dropping bombs today! But we did not. He told us we might see a guy at Middlegate who seems like he is talking to you but he is really talking to himself. But we did not.
We ascended Sand Spring summit (4600 ft) and descended it a 7 mile long basin where we encountered some fierce cross winds which slowed us down a lot. We then ascended Drum Summit (4600) where John got his 2nd flat of the day. As soon as we started riding we were met with a nasty headwind.
We grinded on to Middlegate Station and we met a young man named Devan who is walking across America. He started last 9/11 in Delaware and was trying to finish in San Francisco on 9/11. Pretty amazing.
We had lunch at Middlegate Station. The place seemed like a cross between North Exposure and Twin Peaks. I asked the bartender if they sold bike tubes since they had a small minimart in there. She said no, but said that she was going to Fallon and would bring us back one. She said we should camp there as further up was for folks that had “survival training”. She eventually told us that she had to work and would not be going to Fallon.
We soldiered on after lunch and rode 14 miles uphill with some head winds to Cold Springs which is really nice restaurant/motel/RV park. They are current housing a bunch folks working on a Geothermal plant nearby. They also had a group of Nevada Firefighters staying in a field next door. John looked at them and said “those are real men”.
They let us camp out back for $10. We patched our tubes, had a nice dinner, did laundry and turned in for the night.
Tomorrow should be an easier day. We will head up to Austin which is 50 miles from here. We are at 5500 feet and Austin is at 6600 feet. We will spend the next several days at 6000 feet or higher.
A few photos.
6 liters extra water that John carried-
It sure is –
Rest room –
Scenes from Middlegate Station –
Cold Springs Station scenes –
Location at August 30, 2017 at 07:07PM
Easy Peasy
Carson City, NV > Fallon, NV
Miles Ridden – 60.8
Mileage to date – 323.9
We were on the road a little after 7 am. We rode under cloudy skies with some very light drizzle which was nice after all of the hot weather we have experienced so far. The ride to Fallon is a net downhill but there was some climbing. Overall it was a pretty easy ride. We took US-50 all the way there. In fact we will be following US-50 almost all the way to Utah. It has been described as the Loneliest Road in America. The traffic was heavy leaving Carson City but thinned out the further east we got. There are minimal services between Carson City and Fallon but enough so that we did not need to carry extra water.
The main excitement for the day was John’s bike was wobbling at high speeds. We stopped several times and tried a number of things to fix it. We tightened his rack and adjusted his panniers all to no avail. Finally, we looked in his right rear pannier and discovered he had a heavy item higher up and towards the outside of the bag. John repackaged the bag and put the heavy items lower and voila no more wobble.
Tomorrow we plan to head up to Middlegate Station which is 48 miles away. There is no water between here and there so we will carry extra. If we are feeling good we will continue up 14 miles the road to Cold Springs Station where we can camp for the night. Otherwise we will camp at Middlegate Station.
Some photos from today –
Location at August 29, 2017 at 05:39PM
Now that’s more like it
Silver Lake, CA > Carson City, NV
Miles Ridden – 58.9
Mileage to date – 262.1
We woke up to temperatures in the 40s this morning. Quite the change compared to the 100 degrees we experienced 2 days ago. It made for great sleeping in the tent. We had to start riding with light jackets. We got rid of them about 2 miles in. We climbed 10.5 miles to Carson Pass. On the way we passed Kirkwood ski area. At Carsons Pass, we got some water at the ranger station and took a few photos. We then rode downhill for 15 miles where we stopped at Woodfords Station for lunch. This is another former Pony Express stop. It was delicious.
We then rode about 20 miles to Genoa,NV which is the oldest settlement in NV. It is a very quaint town. We stopped at the country store for cold drinks as the temperature was about 95.
We then rode another 15 miles to Carson City where we are staying at the Golden Dust West Hotel which is also a casino!
All in all it was a delightful day of riding. The scenery especially at higher elevations was beautiful.